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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters
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 (ISBN-13: 9780511267178)

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.


1. Introduction; 2. Observation techniques; 3. Description of ocean waves; 4. Statistics; 5. Linear wave theory (oceanic waters); 6. Waves in oceanic waters; 7. Linear wave theory (coastal waters); 8. Waves in coastal waters; 9. The SWAN wave model; Appendices; References; Index.


Review of the hardback: '… will undoubtedly be welcomed by the extensive engineering community concerned with the impact of ocean waves on ships, off-shore structures, coastal protection, dikes, harbours, beaches and tidal basins.' K. Hasselmann, Director (retired) of the Max-Planck-Institut für Meteorologie, Hamburg, and Emeritus Professor of Theoretical Geophysics, University of Hamburg

Review of the hardback: 'The author, well-known for his work in wave modeling and the development of the SWAN model, provides a valuable introduction … will be very helpful to students, as well as professionals, interested in wind-wave wave modeling. All SWAN users will want a copy.' R. A. Dalrymple, Williard & Lillian Hackerman Professor of Civil Engineering, Johns Hopkins University

Review of the hardback: ' … excellent not only as a textbook for students but also as a reference book for professionals.' Y. Goda, Executive Advisor to ECOH CORPERATION, and formerly Director-General of Port and Airport Research Institute, Japan

Review of the hardback: '… a 'must have' for engineers and scientists interested in the ocean. … It is an invaluable reference for students, researchers and practitioners.' I. Young, Vice-Chancellor and President of Swinburne University of Technology, Australia

Review of the hardback: ' … a great book. The author is one of the leading experts in the field of waves who has taught the subject for over 20 years – and it shows.' J. W. Kamphuis, Emeritus Professor of Civil Engineering, Queen's University, Canada

Review of the hardback: ' … highlights key concepts, unites seemingly unconnected theories, and unlocks the complexity of the sea. … will become an important reference for students, coastal and ocean engineers, and oceanographers.' J. Smith, Editor, International Conference on Coastal Engineering, US Army Engineer Research and Development Center, USA

Review of the hardback: ' … an excellent source of information about wind-generated, ocean-surface gravity waves, especially as used in state of the art numerical wave models, in particular those that simulate waves in shallow coastal waters, such as SWAN. The book is nicely illustrated, well written, contains many references, and will be of interest to scientists and engineers.' Oceanography

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